Elizabethan Hairstyles
The Elizabethan period saw a dramatic change in culture as England transitioned from the fiercely religious Middle Ages and into a more secular society that embraced science, politics and art. The veils of the Medieval period signifying religious modesty were cast aside for the first time in England as young married women went about with their hair uncovered. Hairstyles of the Elizabethan era were characterised by high, frizzed hair and often placed over wires or pads to create a heart-shaped frame around the head. These hair styles were made easier when the first metal hairpins were invented in England in 1545. The ideal hair was considered to be fair or red in colour and preferably naturally curled or waved as inspired by the Queen. Women would supplement their own hair with natural hair pieces sometimes rumoured to have come from horses or even children's hair. Wigs became fashionable in the quarter of the century, being first introduced to England around 1572.
Hair Colour
It was important for Queen Elizabeth to maintain her image and the beauty of the 'Virgin Queen'. The Elizabeth view of ideal beauty was a woman with light hair and a white complexion, complimented with red cheeks and lips. Queen Elizabeth achieved this picture of ideal beauty by using white makeup. She had a natural red hair colour, which was emulated by many of the nobility of the elizabethan era. An upper class Elizabethan woman followed this fashion further and might even dye her hair yellow with a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil. Wigs were also commonly used. Elizabeth had a wide variety of wigs - way over 80.
Hair Styles
Elizabethan hair styles for women were designed to compliment the upper class fashions of the day. Ruffs, or ruffles were in high fashion during the elizabethan era. These became more elaborate and were constructed on gauze wings which were raised at the back of the head. The ruffs, or collars, framed the face and dictated the hairstyles of the age which were generally short for men and swept up look required for women.
A frizzy hairstyle was also one of the required styles for women. They kept their hair long and the full natural beauty of their long hair was displayed by the young women of the era. The long, flowing hair of a young girl was a sign of a virgin and the favoured hairstyle for a bride on her wedding day. An Elizabethan bride would adorn her hair with fresh flowers. Once a woman achieve the married status she wore her hair swept up. Much of the hair was covered by some form of head covering. Long hair was generally dressed in a bun to which the variety of head coverings could be pinned. The front and sides of the hair received great attention as this was the area that was most displayed.
Fringes were not in fashion - hairstyle fashion dictated that hair was combed way from the forehead. The hairstyle was usually designed to complement the style of the hat. Frizzed hair was favoured by the Queen and therefore followed by ladies of the court although straight hair was favoured with a centre parting which especially complimented the french hood.
Head Coverings for women
The Elizabethan fashion dictated that the head was adorned with a hat, veil, coif or caul. This fashion therefore ensured that much of the hair was hidden by some form of head coverings. The style of the head covering dictated the hairstyle. Many of the hats were adorned with feathers, pearls, glass jewels, spangles, gold thread, embroidery and lace.
The Coif - The coif was worn by children. Material was white plain linen, a close fitting cap tied under the chin. Coifs were often worn as caps to keep their hair in place, underneath more elaborate hats.
The French Hood - This was introduced from the french court by Anne Boleyn, the mother of Queen Elizabeth I. A half moon, or crescent, style band or brin sloping away from the face. The edges were often adorned with pearls or glass jewels and a veil covered the back of the hair.
The Atifet - was similar to the french hood style but with a heart shaped crescent. Favoured in white by Mary Queen of Scots. Lace trimmings were also added.
The Caul - Cauls were the Elizabethan hair net. A caul covered the hair at the back of the head and was made of fabric, or fabric covered by netted cord which was sometimes adorned with spangles.
The Pillbox style of hat - which often had a veil attached to the back.
Hair Rats - The essential tool to creating the large hairstyles of this period is a pair of hair rats. These are soft pads you roll the front section of your hair around and pin securely into your hair.
"Then followeth the trimming and tricking of their heds in laying out their hair to the show, which of force must be curled, frizled and crisped, laid out on wreathes & borders from one eare to an other. And lest it should fall down, it is underpropped with forks, wyres, & I can not tel what, rather like grim stern monsters, than chaste christian matrones. Then on the edges of their bolstered heir (for it standeth crested round about their frontiers, & hanging over their faces like pendices or vails with glasse windows on every side) there is layd great wreathes of gold and silver, curiously wrought & cunningly applied to the temples of their heads. And for feare of lacking any thing to set foorth their pride withal, at their heyre, thus wreathed and crested, are hanged bugles, ouches, rings, gold, silver, glasses , & such other gewgawes and trinckets besides, which, for that they be innumerable, and I unskilfull in wemens terms, I cannot easily recount." - Philip Stubbs, 1583
Modern Elizabeth Design
When doing my research on Queen Elizabeth's hair and design, I came across a page where an artist created what historical characters such as Queen Elizabeth and Henry VIII would look like in today's society. The images were created by a digital artist using computer graphics. Historian Dr Suzannah Lipscomb spent three months with the artist, deciding how each character may look today. Below are some examples:
QUEEN ELIZABETH 1
Queen Elizabeth has been reformed into what is described as "a modern powered-lesbian" on the website. She looks like a powerful business leader and looks like someone who would be powerful within the courts in today's civilisation. The artist who designed these looks has also thought really deeply into the reason for why they have designed them like they have. They describe Elizabeth of 'having a reputation for being an austere yet fair ruler, and she was renowned for her political and financial acumen. Elizabeth was interested in fashion - her clothes were always cut from the finest fabrics'. I like how the Queen has been made out to look powerful with her short hairstyle and her modern fashionable trouser suit. A lot of women who are in power today also have short hair and wear these types of fashionable tailored outfits. Especially women of the courts. She is described as a 'powered lesbian' - this makes me think that maybe they have made her look like this because she was never married and was never interested in being married so they thought by making her look like a lesbian, it made her more unappealing to men. 'Lipscomb has boldly suggested that Elizabeth would have loved botox", the reason for this could be because of how much makeup she would wear as she become older and more powerful - she wanted to stay young and beautiful no matter what. I think this is a very realistic view of how Elizabeth would have looked today and I like this idea very much.
Modern Elizabeth Design
When doing my research on Queen Elizabeth's hair and design, I came across a page where an artist created what historical characters such as Queen Elizabeth and Henry VIII would look like in today's society. The images were created by a digital artist using computer graphics. Historian Dr Suzannah Lipscomb spent three months with the artist, deciding how each character may look today. Below are some examples:
QUEEN ELIZABETH 1
Queen Elizabeth has been reformed into what is described as "a modern powered-lesbian" on the website. She looks like a powerful business leader and looks like someone who would be powerful within the courts in today's civilisation. The artist who designed these looks has also thought really deeply into the reason for why they have designed them like they have. They describe Elizabeth of 'having a reputation for being an austere yet fair ruler, and she was renowned for her political and financial acumen. Elizabeth was interested in fashion - her clothes were always cut from the finest fabrics'. I like how the Queen has been made out to look powerful with her short hairstyle and her modern fashionable trouser suit. A lot of women who are in power today also have short hair and wear these types of fashionable tailored outfits. Especially women of the courts. She is described as a 'powered lesbian' - this makes me think that maybe they have made her look like this because she was never married and was never interested in being married so they thought by making her look like a lesbian, it made her more unappealing to men. 'Lipscomb has boldly suggested that Elizabeth would have loved botox", the reason for this could be because of how much makeup she would wear as she become older and more powerful - she wanted to stay young and beautiful no matter what. I think this is a very realistic view of how Elizabeth would have looked today and I like this idea very much.
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