BOOK RESEARCH

The Culture Of Fashion (1995) - Christopher Breward 

"Following the fashion - a survey of elite modes, 1540-1600"

"An emphasis on deeper colour and sumptuous texture at the expense of structural experimentation, expressed through heavy use of black, russet, and burgundy velvet's and brocades, trimmed or lined with sable and fox and cut to conform with the natural contours of the body, remained a basic staple until the 1550's. By the accession of Elizabeth I in 1558 the standard forms for male and female dress had polarised into an aggressive masculinity, accentuated at the shoulders and throwing emphasis on to narrow hips, muscular legs and padded codpiece, contrasted  with a flattened angular femininity, exemplified through a balanced, symmetrical pairing of the bodice and skirt, pyramidical structure that met at the waist". 

Costume & Fashion

"Makeup and Grooming"

"As in medieval times, it was popular for women before marriage to wear their hair loose, long and flowing with a centre parting, from which the locks cascaded down. Upon marriage women covered their hair and continued to pluck the hair line and eyebrows. But they began to experiment with braids - twisting them over the head and incorporating thick strands of unbraided hair over the crown of the head - a popular style in late 15th century Flanders. Women also styled their hair by using curling irons, although often hair was worn in a simple style, leaving the head-dress to give the decorative touch. 

Wigs and false hair pieces were also worn. The best wigs were made in Italy and France, from silk or real hair, supplied by peasants and nuns. It was bought ad sold at public hair auctions. Blonde was still considered the ideal hair shade and women applied bleach and dye to their hair to obtain this colour. It seems that formulas for hair dye had become more sophisticated, as it was possible to achieve different shades of blonde - smoky, golden, tawny, honey or a combination of tones. Bathing i the moonlight was also considered a method of beautifying the hair. 

At the start of the 15th century, older men wore beards but fashionable younger men were clean shaven. A century later, beards were back in vogue. Much time was devoted to their grooming, and they were trimmed and waxed so that they could be shaped and curled. False bears were sometimes worn: at the Duke of Burundy's funeral, the Duke of Lorraine wore a waist-length false gold beard. 

Short hair styles were favoured by men for much of the Renaissance. A bowl type of cut was worn - most prominently by Henry V. His portrait hanging in London's National Portrait Gallery typifies the look. Shoulder length hair and the long fringe both became popular in the 15th century. Louis XI of France wore his hair long and flowing. But short hair became popular once again thanks to Duke Philip of Burgundy: in 1461 he fell ill and was forced to shave off his hair, so some 500 noblemen followed his example. A flamboyant, Florentine style known as the zazzera - a shoulder-length bob frizzed at the sides - caught on with fashionable men across the continent. In London and Paris it became known as 'the Florentine cut'.

"Hats and head-dresses"

"Portraiture reached a peak during the Renaissance. Royalty and members of prominent families posed for great artists and it is from their work that historians have gleaned information on hats and hairstyles. Van Eyck's portrait of Arnolfini shows him wearing a straw hat that was popular with men. It was made from women straw and was probably the handiwork of peasants. The Chaperon - a turban style hat - evolved from the hood. Portraits of Henry VIII and Edward VI show other sumptuous styles worn by rich men. These were beret-shaped with narrow brim which turned up from the face. 

Hats were also adorned with jewels and feathers. Through the 15th century and 16th centuries Italian women often worn turbans. Hoods were common in the Low Countries, while French women wore velvet caps. Bands were worn across the forehead. Head-dresses also featured luxurious embroidery and precious gemstones.